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Textile and
Apparel
Product Development and Materials Analysis Laboratory
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 | Purpose of Materials Analysis
Laboratory
 | Equip the UNI Textiles and
Apparel Program with the capacity to test textile materials across the
major dimensions of physical properties known through research and
experience to be predictors of performance.
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 | Make available for UNI TAPP
majors a laboratory where they can develop technical expertise in the
physical analysis of textile materials.
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 | Create an environment supportive
to the research interests of both students and faculty.
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 | Use the special capabilities of
the laboratory to build meaningful relationships with textile and
apparel companies for the express purpose of developing the skills and
capacities of UNI TAPP majors.
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 | The UNI
laboratory will, for a reasonable fee, conduct textile testing for
industrial clients. Click on the graphic below for our current price
listing.

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 | Contact:
Dr. Mitchell D. Strauss
319 273 2702
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 | Background
 | The funding for this laboratory
was derived from a grant awarded by the National Science Foundation and
matching funds from the University of Northern Iowa. The grant
awarded was under the aegis of the NSF's Course,
Curriculum, and Laboratory Improvement Program (CCLI).
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 | The grant was the combined
effort of the TAPP faculty and represents the culmination of several
years of work. For a summary regarding the impact of
the new laboratory, click on the report icon just below:

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 | Overview
 | The analytical equipment in the laboratory falls
under several different categories:
 | Durability Analysis |
 | Color and Colorfastness Analysis |
 | Safety and Comfort Analysis |
 | Optical Analysis
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 | Given below are descriptions and images of the
various devices available in the Product Development and Materials
Analysis Laboratory.
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Laboratory Facilities
 | Durability Analysis
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 | Color and Colorfastness
Analysis
 | Color measurement is the process of assigning
numerical values to a color so that it can be assigned a specific
location in three-dimensional space. A common method for
measuring color uses a spectrophotometer specially designed for the
purpose. Color management software will permit, for quality assurance
purposes, color matching for color reproduction, and shade sorting,
which is the physical grouping of materials by color. Colorfastness
tests focus on the resistance of a material to change in any of its
color characteristics, which is a major consumer expectation.
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 | A
Spectrophotometer and
Color Management Software
is used to perform basic fabric color
analysis, including color classification, color matching and shade
sorting. The spectrophotometer has a dedicated computer to run data recording
and analysis software. Allows us to conform AATCC
EP 6 for instrumental measurement of colored textile materials.

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 | The
Atlas LEF Low Temperature
Launder-Ometer
is used to determine color fastness to washing or dry cleaning using
an accelerated method. Fabric samples are placed in canisters with a
detergent or solution and steel balls to provide agitation. Samples
are then evaluated for color change. This device can also be used to
simulate industrial dyeing procedures.

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 | The
Atlas S3000
Weather-Ometer is a
device for testing the lightfastness of textile materials, or how well
dyed materials resist fading to light. It has internal humidity and
temperature controls, as those variables interact with a dye’s
lightfastness. This tester is equipped with an air cooled xenon arc
lamp, which is industry recognized as best emulating the energy
pattern of sunlight.

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 | The
Perspirometer is used to determine
colorfastness of textiles to water and perspiration. This device
applies pressure to samples that have been wetted with a simulated
perspiration solution, sea water, or plain water as its heated.
Results are visually or instrumentally evaluated for color change.

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 | The
Electronic Crock Meter is used to
determine the color fastness of textiles to dry or wet rubbing. This
electronic crock meter will replace the department’s outdated and
damaged manual device.

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 | A
Color Matching Cabinet is used for
the visual assessment of color under standard lighting conditions.
AATCC Gray and Chromatic Scales are typically used in these cabinets.

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 | Safety and Comfort Analysis
 | Comfort and safety are product performance
dimensions that have significant impact on consumer satisfaction.
Measuring a material’s reaction to conditions of use provides
information that can be used to predict product performance. Comfort
includes physical, physiological, and psychological factors; it
describes how materials interact with the human body. The relationship
between comfort and materials can include how a material retains or
conducts body or environmental heat, absorbs or repels moisture and
feels next to the skin. Safety addresses the physical risks to which
the user of a textile product is exposed. For the majority of textile
products, the major safety issue is flammability
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 | The
Sweating Guarded Hotplate System is
used to measure the insulation value and evaporative resistance of
fabric systems. This device will allow faculty and students to study
the impact of fabric design and structure on the thermal properties of
those materials.

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 | The
Air Permeability Tester determines
the resistance to the passage of air of woven, knitted and nonwoven
textile materials. This property is of importance to clothing comfort,
thermal, and wetness sensations of human wearers.

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 | The "Umist" Wettability Tester
is used to determine the rate of spread of a liquid through all
directions of a horizontally mounted fabric. The presence of moisture
in fabric greatly affects clothing comfort sensations by human
wearers.

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 | Flammability is evaluated by both the
45
Degree and the
Vertical Flammability Testers. The 45 degree
Tester is used to distinguish explosively flammable textile materials
from others, whereas the Vertical Tester is a more stringent test for
assessment of children's wear. Fabric flammability is a safety
issue that is regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission,
consequently flammability testers are important elements of a
comprehensive product development and physical analysis testing
facility.

 | Here's some interior views of the Vertical
Flame Tester:

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 | A Digital Thickness Tester is used to
measure the gauge or thickness of a fabric which is directly
correlated to fabric insulative properties, as well as a fabric’s
capacity to drape over a three dimensional form. The measure of fabric
thickness is an essential element of a fabric’s usefulness in
product form.

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 | Optical analysis
 | The lab is equipped with a Video
Microscope System for the micro-analysis of textile
materials. Study of fiber morphology, yarn and fabric physical
structure are essential for an effective product development process,
since the physical properties of those materials affect the consumer
behavior of finished products. The system permits analysis of
product defectiveness, which will be useful in quality assurance
aspects of the curriculum. This system will also project an image on a
computer screen for purposes of student-group analysis projects, and
will permit archiving of images in electronic format for effective
dissemination.

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 | A new precision microtome
is
available to produce fiber cross sections of varying thickness for
microscopic examination and identification. This device
is used
to improve the understanding of fiber structure, which is an important
element of a textile material’s physical properties. |

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Laboratory
Location
 | The laboratory which is located in Room 230 Latham
Hall, was renovated, including clearing of one end for the installation
of an environmentally controlled temperature and humidity chamber.
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Old Image
of Latham 230
Before Renovation |

Image
of New CTH Chamber |
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 | The
material shown on this webpage is based upon work
supported by the National Science Foundation under Grant No. 9952283.
Any opinions, findings, and
conclusions or recommendations expressed in this material are those of the
author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views of the National Science
Foundation. |
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