Saturday, July 07,
2007
Off to other parts of the world
Bangladesh is a long way from Iowa. In fact it is twelve time zones ahead of
us, longitudinally on the opposite side of the world. Though the size of
Iowa—each has about 56,000 square mile—and rural like Iowa, it could
hardly be more different from Iowa.
For starters, it is a coastal country rather than situated in the middle of
a continent. For another, its seasons are mainly marked by differences in
rainfall rather than temperature. (By our standards even the dry season is
wet; the rainy season literally is a monsoon. Rather than our average of 30
inches of rain a year, Bangladesh exceeds 100.
Where we take snowfall in stride, they do the same with flooding because in
a “normal” year 30 per cent of the land surface is submerged.)
Another significant difference is that where Iowa is largely Christian,
Bangladesh is almost totally Muslim. Beyond that is major differences in
income. Iowans on average make about $28,000 a year, Bangladeshis about
$2,300—a twelfth as much.
The most striking difference between Iowa and Bangladesh, though, is
population. Spread over its 56,000 square miles, Iowa has a mere three
million people. A drive across Iowa shows that we are still a farm state,
though few of us actually farm.
Over an area slightly smaller than ours, Bangladesh has a whopping 150
million people! To understand the difference, consider this: The City of
Cedar Rapids has a population density of about 1,900 people per square mile.
The whole country of Bangladesh —the area equivalent of our river to river
state —has a population density of about 2,700 people per square mile.
Even if we extract the one-third of Bangladesh’s people who live in cities
(and the land they live on), the density of rural Bangladesh is about the
same as that of the City of Cedar Rapids — the whole country with people
as densely settled as Cedar Rapids!
How do they do it? What are the consequences? Fifteen of us affiliated with
the Geographical Alliance of Iowa are about to see for ourselves. We embark
on an adventure to Bangladesh July 7, returning August 6.
We will develop curricular materials from elementary through university
levels based on the National Geography Standards. We will be focusing in
particular but not solely on environmental and health problems because these
are so acute.
We have done our homework, so we know what we are getting into. We know we
will be there during the monsoon, but we have had similar experiences
before. (About half of our group had similar trips to Nigeria in 1999 and
India in 2003. You can see we are serious scholars, going to places that are
ill-understood rather than vacation spots.)
Through The Gazette we will share with you our month long adventure. We will
report on our daily activities and the lessons we learn. We will relate the
ups and downs of the trip. We will give you a chance to meet us, people who
teach your kids from the elementary level through the Regents universities.
Before I end this first submission allow me to say a few words about the
“GAI,” our organization of geography teachers in the state. We are based
at the University of Northern Iowa under the capable leadership of Professor
Kay Weller. Our website includes the products of our Nigerian and Indian
trips, complete with photographs and lesson plans so that anyone may learn
from them.
This trip, as was the case with the other two, is a Fulbright-Hays Group
Project, funded by the US Department of Education after a thorough,
competitive process. We are looking forward to the trip and to sharing our
adventure with you.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Getting There and First Impressions
Part of the price one pays to learn about Bangladesh first hand is just
getting there. The Geographical Alliance of Iowa Group Project paid that
price over a 30-hour period beginning Saturday afternoon, Iowa time.
Most of us gathered at the Eastern Iowa airport for a 5:05 flight with
American Airlines. We are all geography teachers, interested in seeing
places. We had a good start with an excellent view of the green landscapes
of Iowa and Illinois, passing directly over Dubuque and its picturesque
river setting and less picturesque Rockford before taking a grand turn
around Chicago.
A couple of others joined us at O’Hare Airport in Chicago for our 8:15
p.m. flight to London. As those who have flown across an ocean know, the
flight begins with a round of drinks before a meal, followed by
entertainment.
The American Airlines flight had individual screens and a sizable range of
choices, including a map showing the route at several scales and information
about distance traveled and time to go.
We reached daylight well before reaching Ireland so those of us with
windows, including several of us, had high level views of Ireland and south
Wales before getting an absolutely spectacular view of London as we circled
Britain’s capital before landing at Heathrow at 9:30, six hours ahead of
Iowa.
It was a short night with at most a few hours of sleep.
At Heathrow current realities confronted us. With the security level high,
thanks to the recent bombing attempts in Britain in general and at British
airports in particular, we had to forego any ideas of a quick dash by train
into the center of London for a brisk walk before catching our flight to
Bangladesh.
We understand the precautions. The flight to our destination of Dhaka was
with British Airways. It was quite different from the American flight in a
couple of major ways. One was that none of us had windows and indeed most of
us had middle seats. The seats were reasonably comfortable, no problem
there.
The vast majority of the people on the plane were Bangladeshis returning
home or people of Bangladeshi ancestry returning to the homes of their
ancestors. Many of the passengers were children, including quite a number of
infants going to see grandparents for the first time.
Our 3:30 p.m. departure meant we had a view of much of Europe as our route
took us over the Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Belarus, Ukraine and Russia
before nightfall. By the time we reached daylight again we were over eastern
India approaching Dhaka.
Cloud cover prevented us from seeing much until the landing. We could see
the interplay of land and water that we were coming to Bangladesh to see. We
made it, and we were anxious to get going.
Colleagues from Bangladesh and a tourist agency engaged to provide
assistance met us at the airport and whisked us off to the Best Western
LaVinci Hotel in central Dhaka. The trip took forty minutes and gave us a
quick glimpse of this city of nine million people—yes, three times the
population of Iowa in a single metropolis!
We were all struck at the number of bicycle rickshaws being used as taxis.
There were thousands. We will provide a photograph as soon as we get some
downloaded.
We showered and changed clothes at La Vinci, ready to start the firsthand
part of our Bangladesh adventure.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Getting There and First Impressions
Part of the price one pays to learn about Bangladesh first hand is just
getting there. The Geographical Alliance of Iowa Group Project paid that
price over a 30-hour period beginning Saturday afternoon, Iowa time.
Most of us gathered at the Eastern Iowa airport for a 5:05 flight with
American Airlines. We are all geography teachers, interested in seeing
places. We had a good start with an excellent view of the green landscapes
of Iowa and Illinois, passing directly over Dubuque and its picturesque
river setting and less picturesque Rockford before taking a grand turn
around Chicago.
A couple of others joined us at O’Hare Airport in Chicago for our 8:15
p.m. flight to London. As those who have flown across an ocean know, the
flight begins with a round of drinks before a meal, followed by
entertainment.
The American Airlines flight had individual screens and a sizable range of
choices, including a map showing the route at several scales and information
about distance traveled and time to go.
We reached daylight well before reaching Ireland so those of us with
windows, including several of us, had high level views of Ireland and south
Wales before getting an absolutely spectacular view of London as we circled
Britain’s capital before landing at Heathrow at 9:30, six hours ahead of
Iowa.
It was a short night with at most a few hours of sleep.
At Heathrow current realities confronted us. With the security level high,
thanks to the recent bombing attempts in Britain in general and at British
airports in particular, we had to forego any ideas of a quick dash by train
into the center of London for a brisk walk before catching our flight to
Bangladesh.
We understand the precautions. The flight to our destination of Dhaka was
with British Airways. It was quite different from the American flight in a
couple of major ways. One was that none of us had windows and indeed most of
us had middle seats. The seats were reasonably comfortable, no problem
there.
The vast majority of the people on the plane were Bangladeshis returning
home or people of Bangladeshi ancestry returning to the homes of their
ancestors. Many of the passengers were children, including quite a number of
infants going to see grandparents for the first time.
Our 3:30 p.m. departure meant we had a view of much of Europe as our route
took us over the Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Belarus, Ukraine and Russia
before nightfall. By the time we reached daylight again we were over eastern
India approaching Dhaka.
Cloud cover prevented us from seeing much until the landing. We could see
the interplay of land and water that we were coming to Bangladesh to see. We
made it, and we were anxious to get going.
Colleagues from Bangladesh and a tourist agency engaged to provide
assistance met us at the airport and whisked us off to the Best Western
LaVinci Hotel in central Dhaka. The trip took forty minutes and gave us a
quick glimpse of this city of nine million people—yes, three times the
population of Iowa in a single metropolis!
We were all struck at the number of bicycle rickshaws being used as taxis.
There were thousands. We will provide a photograph as soon as we get some
downloaded.
We showered and changed clothes at La Vinci, ready to start the firsthand
part of our Bangladesh adventure.
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Contrasts in Dhaka: July 10, 2007
The significance of the Bengali monsoon was evident to our Geographical
Alliance of Iowa group as soon as our plane broke through the clouds to land
Monday morning.
Water and land were interspersed as we viewed a part of the world very
different from our own. Cooperative weather allowed us to see a considerable
amount of Dhaka, Bangladesh’s capital city, on Monday and Tuesday, July 9
and 10. The rains held off until the middle of Tuesday afternoon, at that
point sending us back to the hotel to gather our thoughts, work on our
projects, and do a little writing.
By any measure, Dhaka is a massive city. It has fully nine million people,
three times the number of people who live in all of Iowa. And remember, the
country as a whole crowds 150 million into an area almost exactly identical
to Iowa’s.
Monday as we drove from the airport to the hotel each of us was struck with
contrasts. Let us share a few of those observations with you as we have
begun learning about this country that is both large (in population) and
small (in area—and, to be frank, influence).
The most common vehicle is a bicycle rickshaw, really a tricycle with just
one gear. The front is a bicycle. The passengers sit behind and higher than
the driver.
The passengers can sit under cover. In fact, decorating the covers has
become a cultural competition. As members of our group who know design
explained to the rest of us, two styles predominate: paintings and appliqué.
These rickshaws of course have obvious advantages. They do not pollute; they
are inexpensive, and they are flexible.
Just as obviously they have disadvantages, foremost being speed. We did see
that this disadvantage hardly matters for several hours each morning and
afternoon when traffic is very heavy and ponderously slow.
One could not get far with this mode of transportation under ideal traffic
conditions, so one has to think that other modes of transportation will
overtake the bicycle rickshaw in coming decades.
Motorized transportation in Dhaka ranges from “auto-rickshaws,” which
differ considerably from the ones powered by cyclists.
This decade the Bangladesh government has forced these vehicles to switch
from gas to “cooled natural gas” (CNG) with a dramatic improvement in
air quality. The metropolis has few expressways, and many of the roads are
choked with vehicles, so having small vehicles has its advantages.
The members of the group agreed to share their first impressions of
Bangladesh.
Dan Walsh of Cedar Rapids: “It is always very easy to tell that
you are “not in Iowa anymore” by looking at the traffic. When I say
traffic I do not mean just the cars on the street. Traffic in Bangladesh
is cars, motorcycles, rickshaws, taxis, buses and people on foot in all
different directions. You see an organized chaos that is little understood
unless you have witnessed it.
Luke Juran of Dyersville: Bangladesh, a country of contrast and
juxtapositions. The most beautiful and unpleasant scenes can be caught in
the glance of an eye or a single snap of a photograph. Poverty and
technology, nature and pollution, and vivid color and dreariness all
coexist in an unimaginable seamless harmony. A look out of the bus window
overwhelms the senses and leaves one in awe. I look forward to
understanding more of this vibrant and fascinating culture.
George Kuhter, Toledo: The people. The number of people
everywhere. Bangladesh is one of the most densly populated places in the
world. It seems that wherever you go there are millions of people. Even
though the number of people is so massive, it seems so orderly. The sheer
number of people is one of the most amazing first impressions of the
country. You often hear of the sensory overload of large cities but until
you hear it, see it, and experience it, you won’t believe it.
Linda Litterer, Fort Madison: Overwhelming. . . I think I will
always remember crowded streets, blaring horns, rickshaws, cars and buses
jostling for room on narrow winding streets, shops selling everything from
fresh produce to car parts (but mostly fabric, fabric, and more fabric),
and the surprising lack of disastrous accidents. In spite of endless
near-misses, I saw only one man fall out of a rickshaw, and every naked
child that ran alongside our bus seems to have emerged unscathed. The
other image is that of people – women in beautiful traditional clothing,
thin straining men pedaling rickshaws with huge loads or several people on
the back, and the children playing on city streets in the rain. We seem to
be the only Americans in Dhaka – not true I am sure, but we do always
seem to be the center of attention. At the waterfront, we were surrounded
about five deep by polite, silent men and boys who watched our every move
and listened to every word we said.
Sarah Dorpinghaus, Iowa City: My first impressions tend to be
visual, which is truly the case with Dhaka. I was immediately taken by the
colors of Bangladesh’s capital city- greens, reds, pinks and yellows.
One can not tire of watching the ornately painted rickshaws peddling by or
the beautifully woven clothing of the Bangladeshi women. Yet before we
were immersed with its beauty, we experienced our first taste of
Bangladeshi hospitality. Since our arrival we have been lavished with kind
greetings, friendly advice, and welcoming conversation not unlike that
found in good ole small-town Iowa. It has been a fantastic first two days
and the thrills will most definitely continue.
Dawn Brown, New Hampton: We have gracious hosts — our guides’
welcome with flowers in arms for each of us, hotel staff who salute us at
the front door, restaurant wait staff standing tableside and catering to
our every need, vendors who greet us in the markets, and the Bangladeshi
people at-large who meet us, greet us, and enjoy posing for photos.
Hospitality and service are rich values among an ambitious, hard-working
entrepreneurial population. The city is a vibrant movement of people and
goods. There is a lack of valuable infrastructure, however. Gee, what the
people could benefit from is an improved waste disposal system and traffic
control. I look forward to meeting more and more people!!!!!
Jane Watson, Hazleton: My first impression began during our
9-hour flight from London to our destination. My seat mates were both
citizens of Bangladesh - a 32-year-old mother and her 5 month baby living
in Canada where her husband is going to college and a gentleman who works
at a financial institution in London. Both were very open in sharing their
lives and their country. I asked individually, “What do you want our
group of 15 USA teachers to share with our students about your country?”
They both replied share about the generosity of their people for their
families and each other. The children (including adult children like
themselves) are well loved and cared for. As adult children going home
they will be surrounded with loving attention. This love carries
throughout all the people regardless of economic status. My seatmates told
me to expect the people to do anything in their power that would make our
stay nicer. We have been here 2 days and I have found their statements to
be very true. While there are many many people in the city of Dhaka they
are kind and considerate to each other and to us. They can not do enough
for us. This seems true regardless of economic status. I look forward to
meeting the people in other areas of this country of generous hearts.
Thursday, July 12,
2007
Harmony amidst bustle
Following a late night at the drama performance, sleep was light, so I
woke up early. Horns were beeping and rickshaw bells were ringing outside
to announce a brand new day. The long shower cooled me temporarily, only
to draw beads of sweat over my entire body when I got dressed. Partly
cloudy skies greeted us and I went up to breakfast on the top floor of our
hotel overlooking Dhaka.
The hotel is located on one the corner of a main road so the action on the
road is constant. At the street level the start of the day for the
population is juxtaposed in this way. Businessmen in collared shirts are
getting out of chauffeured cars and walking into the bank across the
street while workers in more traditional dress head-carry bananas and
other produce. Women in saris are going into the market to shop for the
daily food. Side by side it all takes place and there is harmony in this
mass of color and culture.
 |
| Members of the
Geographic Alliance of Iowa at the Kella Lalbagh, an ancient
fortress and palace for a number of rulers. |
Friday, July 13, 2007
Government from the inside
The Bangladeshi flag has a green background to
represent the agriculture and the red
circle, slightly
offset from the center, represents the fight for
independence.
|
Following a short drive we arrived at Dhaka University for a meeting with the
Department of Geography and Environment. Our meeting was in the conference room,
after introductions all around, we were received by the Professors of Dhaka
University. Dhaka, being the capital of Bangladesh, is also home to the
Bangladesh Geographic Society. Next year, the Geography Department will
celebrate its 60th year of operation. With 27 faculty with many domestic degrees
and degrees from overseas, the Geography Department is a center of learning for
Bangladesh. The focus of this program is to write curriculum for K-12 teachers
focusing on natural hazards. The rest of the time at Dhaka University was used
exchanging information with third year students in a geography class. They had
many questions and knowledge about the natural hazards Bangladesh faces each
year. The students also asked us questions about the effects of Global Warming
and emergency preparedness dealing with Hurricane Katrina. If the climate warms,
Bangladesh faces issues dealing with an encroaching sea level, more extreme
weather patterns, and potential problems with agriculture.
Dr. Kay Weller from UNI passes out a
globe beach ball as a prize in the
Geography class at Dhaka University. |
When we left the Dhaka campus we drove to a meeting with the Chairman of
Universities for Bangladesh, Nazrul Islam, whose job is much like the Board of
Regents in Iowa. Bangladesh has 29 Public Universities and 52 Private
Universities. He explained the path that most Bangladeshi children take through
primary schools and followed this through to college. Their system is very close
to ours with some country wide standardized testing for admission to any of
these colleges. A cultural understanding that is currently being addressed in
Bangladesh is the education of women and young girls. Parents, who send their
girls to school, may qualify for a stipend which is paid to the family. This is
yet another way that Bangladesh addressing issues in their country. Mr. Islam
had a special place in his heart for our group, because he was once a faculty
member in the Geography Department at the University of Dhaka.
Dr. Rex Honey from the University of
Iowa listens in as the Bangladesh
National Forecasting Center gives
their presentation on natural disasters,
tropical storms, cyclones, flooding,
and tsunami prediction models. |
One would think that this was already a full day but after lunch we had
scheduled appointments to address Emergency Preparedness at the Bangladesh
National Meteorology Department. Living in Iowa, we are used to the natural
disasters, like tornadoes, all too fresh in our minds in Eastern Iowa.
Bangladesh experiences some tornadoes, in addition to cyclones, monsoon rains,
and droughts. The Bangladesh National Meteorology Department has a series of
radars, a Doppler radar, satellite links, and links with other concerned NGOs
(Non-Government Organizations). This national system, is in many ways
inadequate, the television stations in Cedar Rapids have as much, if not more
sophisticated equipment.
Saturday, July 14, 2007
A day in the countryside
Measures taken to curtail encroaching
river bank erosion. |
After four days in an urban area, a day of fieldwork in the countryside was
most welcome. Leaving Dhaka, we saw its outer ring of steel mills and brick
factories, their smokestacks were the only vertical feature in a very green
horizontal landscape. The road to Louhaganj, the district capital of
Munshigangi, was built within the last 30 years and is significantly built
up. Before that, water transport was used to get to and from Dhaka.
Louhaganji and its population of 30,000 is 32 km (about 20 miles) from
Dhaka, but it took about three hours to get there.
From a bus window, there is always something to look at. There are a variety
of housing styles: houses built on stilts near the river, houses made of
corrugated iron, the straw, Quonset-hut shaped houses, and those made of
brick covered in stucco. We saw burlap tied together like tall corn shocks
or hanging to dry, banana trees, palm trees, and crops unfamiliar to Iowans;
children and cattle swimming in ponds and bayou backwater, fishing weirs,
too.
An auditorium that collapsed as a result
of river bank erosion |
The river we saw is a tributary of the Ganges, perhaps 1/4 mile across. We
took a motor boat that would easily carry 20 people across the river to a
new resort that is being built. By September when the resort opens, other
weary urbanites will be able to rent a lofted apartment on stilts for about
$60-$70 a night, full board included. Wastewater is collected in a holding
tank beneath each apartment linked by a common boardwalk.
Returning to Louhaganj, we saw the effects of flooding: the auditorium was
partly collapsed into the river. Pole sized trees were woven into a grid,
holding the bank in place. These coastal embankments are
controversial—while some areas may be helped, others downstream may
suffer.
A newly built resort for weary
urbanites. |
After a walk through the village, we bussed a short distance to the Ganges
River. As there was no bridge, busses and trucks were being ferried across
the swift chalky river, which is wide enough here to make the Mississippi
River at Dubuque seem like a creek. Whitewater appears in the middle of the
channel. This great river which drains from the Himalayas can only be
described as impressive.
A bridge that we’ll cross tomorrow as we leave Dhaka for Rajshahi is 6 km
across, and one currently under construction by the Japanese will be
crossing an even larger span.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Of rural bankers and 'phone ladies'
We were out of town for a few days and are catching up. We were posed with a
blog question about the "phone ladies." So far we have not ran
into any "phone ladies" in the countryside, but we did investigate
extensively the works of the Grameen Bank and Grameen Phone.
In Bangla, Grameen roughly means "rural," and the Grameen Bank
offers micro-credit loans to individuals to finance projects that a regular
bank would not fund due to the extremely low amount of money needed to fund
the project.
Grameen Phone works in the same way. A "phone lady" is given a
cell phone in a rural area, called a "district" and is given a
small stipend of about 2 Taka per call (about 5 to 7 cents). The "phone
lady" is given the phone and minutes to, basically to sell. This also
gives the woman a chance for some sense of economic independence.
Grameen phone was also recently heavily invested in by a Norwegian phone
company, who owns about 40 percent of the company, but was able to maintain
the “Grameen” brand name. As we have traveled we have seen billboard,
upon billboard, hats, shirts, taxi ads, and etc. advertising Grameen Phone.
We will let you know if we run into any "phone ladies" and
describe the process when and if we see it. Thank you for the question and
if there are other bloggers with more questions, please ask, we will be here
through the first part of August.
Wednesday, July 18,
2007
On the Road Again, and Again, and Again
We left Rajshahi at 8 a.m. this morning for Dhaka via Kazipur, where a
village had been displaced and rebuilt three kilometers from its original
site because of flood waters. The first-hand look at the site was
beneficial; at least six-miles of one-lane dirt road along a leg of that
journey were unbelievably eroded.
We are having some fun together as a group, and today’s long 11-hour,
140-mile trip provided opportunity for continued window-gawking, small
conversations between bus seatmates, and some uncontrollable laughter, too.
Sights along the roadside today kept us entertained — I especially enjoyed
the new sight of water buffalo being led down the roadside.
Luke is enjoying riding in the front seat of our tour bus; he said he likes
the large window and view of traffic, exclaiming it’s “like an Imax
theater!”
We cheered this morning at Kay’s surprise distribution of small bags of
chocolate M&Ms®, which we carefully shared; we developed a five-star
rating system for pit stop facilities; and under the guidance of Kathy and
Jill, we wrote our first stanzas to “My Bangladesh Things,” with thanks
to Rogers & Hammerstein for the tune.
Kay took advantage of the time on our hands, too, and gave us an assignment,
to which we quickly responded. For Kay, we generated a list of pre-test
questions for our Bangladesh unit.
One of our leg-stretching stops today was at a hospital where an elderly
woman inside a waiting room excitedly introduced herself to us and shared
proudly that Americans had paid for her glasses. She was very pleased to
meet us; that’s a meeting I won’t easily forget.
A second memorable stop was at a hand loom facility, where men and even
young boys were making beautiful cloth with foot-powered clicking and
clacking looms.
We haven’t tired of taking photos. Between us, I’m predicting we’ll
end up having the largest single collection of Bangladesh photos currently
available and eventually posted on the Internet.
As we turned the corner in Dhaka and saw the Best Western tonight, I felt
like we had come home. At check-in, most of us were given the same rooms
where we were comfortable last week. The service and attention we get from
employees here is welcoming and over-the-top hospitable.
All travelers are still healthy. All are safe. More good things are to come.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
The Day of the Armed Guards
We started the day being regarded by guards in green with rifles in hand at the
bank across the street from the hotel. Perhaps they were concerned that we would
try to cash travelers’ checks at the bank?
There followed a trip to Jahangirnagar University, home school of our guide,
Moshuir. It turned out to be a beautiful facility and the presentations lived up
to the promises of the well-kept Department of Geography and Environment.
Power outages aside, we heard four excellent presentations and had an
opportunity to visit with the students, which is always a treat. My personal
favorite was the presentation on “Hazards and Disasters in Bangladesh,”
complete with charts and photographs that were very helpful in understanding the
magnitude of the problems faced by the country.
The students we interviewed got into a heated argument when the lone young man
in the group argued that global warming was not a problem. I thought the girls
were going to come over the table after him! The time with the students was
followed by the usual “tea and biscuits.”
After a short drive to an excellent restaurant, past the first golf course I
have seen in Dhaka, although I hear there is at least one more. The restaurant
is the site of a poster created by the Tourism Bureau that says, “See
Bangladesh Before the Tourists Come."
We then went to the National Martyrs’ Memorial, one of the most beautiful and
moving places we have been since coming to Bangladesh.
Again we were shadowed by armed guards (this time in blue), but this time they
apparently were sent for our protection. It was somewhat disconcerting to be
closely followed by men with guns, but once we found their purpose it was not so
threatening.
Interviews begin
Interviews at Rajshahi University:
The day began with a visit to Rajshahi University to interview students
about daily life in Bangladesh and their experiences with natural disasters.
We first met with the grades 9 and 10 students from Rajshahi University Lab
School and then the university students (ages 17 to 22).
The students expressed concerns over flooding and drought and told accounts
of being trapped on roofs, water shortages, fleeing to shelters, disease,
and economic ruin.
In addition, we learned about relief measures the communities, national
government, and NGOs had taken.
The students were also eager to describe their daily activities, hobbies,
and career goals and were inquisitive about life in the United States as
well.
Questions were asked regarding flooding in the United States, Katrina relief
efforts, and global warming. The morning ended with smiles, hugs, and plenty
of “snaps”.
Varendra Research Society:
After lunch at a local Chinese restaurant (with a Greco-Roman interior
motif) we made a short stop at a local museum that housed various Buddhist,
Hindu, and Muslim artifacts dating back to the 1st century B.C.E.
Sopura Silk Mills: We then arrived at one of Rajshahi’s silk mills for a
tour. We were able to see the step by step process of how the silk thread
was magnificently turned into a beautiful sari, complete with embroidery and
sequins.
I immediately identified the large machines with the textile mills of
Lowell, Massachusetts and Manchester, England. It was a trip back in time. I
was amazed to see each step done by hand in what many would describe as
deplorable conditions- OSHA’s worst nightmare indeed.
After interviewing some of the workers, we found the wages there averaged
about ten to fifteen dollars a month, including overtime (however, one must
remember that fifteen dollars go further in Bangladesh than the states).
Rajshahi Orphanage:
The afternoon’s final activity was a bittersweet visit to the local
orphanage. We toured both the boys’ and girls’ dormitories and visited
with the manager, who described how these children ended up at these
facilities.
Most of the children arrived because they had lost both parents and did not
have family to care for them. We were happy to hear that the children did
receive an education and some job training, and we concluded our visit with
a donation of supplies and some financial assistance.
Friday, July 20, 2007
A Drive to Paharpur
Paharpur, a Buddhist site funded
by the United Nations Educational,
Scientific, and Cultural Organization
(UNESCO) |
The sultry day commenced at 8:00 am with the group loading into the bus for a
100 kilometer trip from Rajshahi to Paharpur. Paharpur -- pahar meaning
‘hill’ and pur meaning ‘place’ -- is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that
represents the largest Buddhist monastery south of the Himalayas. Paharpur was
constructed in the 8th century and covers a 27 acre area. There are 177 rooms
where Buddhist monks used to live and teach. In the center of the historical,
religious, and archaeological site is a large temple built on a manmade hill,
hence the name Paharpur (hill place).
The most interesting part of the trip to Paharpur was the journey getting
there. The 100 kilometer trip, which is a little over 60 miles, took close to
four hours to complete. The roads were mostly paved, but littered with massive
potholes, intermittent sections of dirt, and were often only one lane. We
passed through a countless number of villages and towns and got a better
flavor of rural lifestyle. The major crop being produced was rice, with
sugarcane, banana, jute, betel, and fruits and vegetables also being grown. A
couple farmers were using small diesel tractors, a few were plowing their
fields with cattle-pulled plows, while most of the work was extremely labor
intensive being performed by hand.
Rice paddies as far as the eye can
see. |
The domestication of multiple varieties of animals was overwhelmingly visible.
Goats, cattle, and an occasional sheep were grazing in the rice paddies,
ditches, and around the houses eating agricultural waste, grass, and weeds.
There was a preponderance of goats, but there were even more ducks and geese.
Ducks and geese were spotted walking in groups alongside the road, swimming
and eating in the rice paddies, and meandering around the villages. At one
point the bus had to stop to let a group of ducks cross the road- a veritable
‘duck crossing’! Furthermore, some of the fowl were covered in neon pink
markings so the owner could identify them, which made for some interesting
colored ducks and geese. The fowl are used for both eggs and meat.
After enjoying our destination of Paharpur we had lunch and embarked on our
long return journey. En route back to Rajshahi we stopped to visit Kusumba
Mosque, a place of worship for Muslims that was constructed 510 years ago by
Moghul ruler Sultan Nashrat Shah. A few kilometers later we stopped at a betel
farm. Betel leaves are chewed after a meal and act as a stimulant and help aid
digestion. As we visited the betel farm, a village cricket game was being
played and live chickens were being sold in the background.
Nodas drying to be sold as fuel
for cooking. |
The remainder of the ride back to our hotel consisted of winding through
villages and seeing more agriculture and domesticated animals. There were many
timber shops along the road selling firewood, bureaus, wood for personal use,
and even a few boat-builders.
One last interesting sight was passing a caravan of six van rickshaws
(tricycles used for transporting goods) filled to the brim with cow dung
formed on sticks. Each ‘dung kebab’ -- known as nodas in the Bengali
language -- is sold for around 5 takas (7 cents) and is used as fuel for
cooking food.
After returning to Rajshahi we ate some real kebabs at a restaurant and
went back to the hotel to prepare for tomorrow’s surely extraordinary day.
-- By Luke Juran of Dyersville, an M.A. student in international studies and a
Ph.D. student in geography at the University of Iowa.
Saturday, July 21, 2007
RAGBRAI and rickshaws
With the conclusion of the Tour de France in sight and the beginning of
RAGBRAI we have thought a great deal about the throng of bike riders making
their way across the state.
As bikers ride on two wheels we pondered what it would be like to make the
trip on a rickshaw.
We will be tuned in to the Gazette to see all of the RAGBRAI festivities.
We urge Gazette readers and RAGBRAI enthusiasts to send in pictures of the
wild and wacky bikes of all different shapes during the week’s event.
After two weeks of seeing a variety of rickshaws, we are interested in
seeing strange bike pictures during RAGBRAI.
Saturday, July 21, 2007
Agricultural comparisons
We continued our 12th day of research by traveling to Nagarpur. This area is
affected by river bank erosion and yearly flooding. The four hour drive
provides us with views of farm ground. Both Bangladesh and Iowa’s main
economy is based on agriculture. My husband by Iowa standards would be
considered a small family farmer. Let’s do some comparison.
Bangladesh -- The average sized farm is one acre (about the
size of a football field). Main crops grown are rice, jute, mangoes, jackfruit
(their state fruit) and others. They do grow a small amount of corn. Their
main livestock is goats, chicken, cattle, and sheep. We did see one small herd
of hairy hogs. Muslims do not eat pork. The farmers work is very hand labor
intensive. Their main tools are hoes, water buffalo, and a few tractors. While
the majority of the work is done by the men, we do see women in the saris and
children laboring in the fields. Crops are harvested by hand and transported
out of the field by baskets carried on the head.
Iowa -- My husband farms about 500 acres which would be
considered an average to small farm. Main crops grown are corn and soybeans.
Iowa is well known for hog production. We also raise beef and dairy cattle.
The farmers work is very labor intensive. On our small farm we have 6
tractors, a combine, planter, and many other machinery equipment required in
the production. While the majority of the work on our farm is done by my
husband, our children (when living at home) and I could be found helping. We
would be wearing “chore clothes” consisting of blue jeans and old shirts.
Our crops are harvested by the use of many pieces of machinery including
combines, wagons, tractors, and agues to put the grain into storage bins.
Along the way we visited the family of one of our members, Dr. Bimal Paul, a
professor of geography at Kansas State University. The small village where his
family lives consists of several corrugated steel and concrete houses. One
building is a shared kitchen. We were graciously greeted by his family. While
there we shared books, maps, and globes with the children.
In our travels we passed several small shops that made rickshaws. These Iowa
teachers had enjoyed the rickshaw art and were excited to have the opportunity
to purchase several pieces. What fun?!?
In Dhaka we have been staying at the Best Western La Vinci Hotel. The staff is
fantastic. They can not do enough to please us. I have a music background and
have been interested in the harmonium, a small piano/accordion type instrument
which one of the staff plays. I asked if he could give me lessons. Not only
did he do that but he graciously offered to sell it to me. So Iowa -- get
prepared. Jane is bringing a harmonium back to the States.
Saturday, July 21, 2007
A Day of Many Bonuses!
Monday, July 23, 2007
Banskhali or Bust
Today we woke up in Chittagong, the business capital and port city of
Bangladesh, located on the southeast coast of Bangladesh.
Chittagong’s population is 3 million - the entire state of Iowa’s
population in one city! Chittagong is well known these days as it is the home
of Muhammad Yunus, recent Nobel Laureate and creator of the micro-credit
concept and Grameen Bank.
From Chittagong we drove to Banskhali, which literally means “bamboo
place.” Banskhali was one of the worst affected cities hit by the 1991
cyclone, which claimed 131,000 lives.
After two and a half hours of traveling via winding, one lane, flood ravaged
roads we reached a cyclone shelter and school in the Banskhali village of
Bariakhandi.
Cyclone shelters have been constructed along the coast to provide a safe place
for citizens to seek refuge. Shelters have been put up by the government, NGOs
and relief organizations, and through grants. Furthermore, schools and mosques
also serve as cyclone and flood shelters as they possess room for large
crowds.
It was great to start the day with a brisk walk along with four others from
our group. The local police happily posed for a group photograph and it was
interesting to watch a man climbing steep steps in front of me while carrying
multiple ducks balanced in a basket on his head.
Then there was another delicious breakfast back at Dhaka's Best Western La
Vinci Hotel: a noodle and vegetable stir-fry; a papaya stir-fry mixture; a
(Western style) omelet; creamy yogurt over chunks of mango and pineapple; and
tea (or coffee) with milk and sugar.
After breakfast, we traveled north near the town of Savar where we were
delighted with a series of arts and crafts experiences as well as many
"bonus" surprises.
We embarked from the boat station at Nayarhat in two tarp-covered motor boats
and traveled on the River Bongshi perhaps twenty minutes through gentle rain.
We were surrounded by vibrant green plants on the banks and in the water,
which was flooded outside of the normal river banks.
Our destination was Kakran, a traditional potters' village. Here we visited
the first of two Hindu artisan workshops at which we observed talented artists
making a range of items for local purchase and some also for export (the metal
work).
At the village of Kakran, ceramic artists use local clay supplies to create
hand-built artwork and to throw pots on kick-wheels. Clay slip is used to
apply decorative designs. Firing takes place in an open-sided kiln dug into an
earthen bank. We were happy to purchase bells and other small items that we
will attempt to carry safely home.
In Kakran, we were generously included in various aspects of a wedding that
had just occurred. A small band of male performers played music and danced
exuberantly. We were given permission to take photographs of the
traditionally-dressed bride and groom at the home of the groom, and were glad
to give a traditional gift of "takas" (Bangladeshi currency) to the
newly married couple.
Bimal later told us more about some traditional aspects of this and other
Hindu weddings. The couple married under a canopy held up by bamboo posts
decorated with banana leaves.
The third night after the wedding would be the couple's first night alone
together, as on the first night, a young relative would spend the night with
them - and on the second night, they would need to sleep apart.
The "second night apart" custom is based on the story of a groom
being bitten by a snake when he did not sufficiently honor the goddess of the
snake.
I found it hard to leave Kakran as the villagers kept providing warm
hospitality and interesting activities, however the boat ride back was very
refreshing.
A large group of white-uniformed school boys lined up along the shore to wave
to us en route, and at the port market, our wonderful guide Moshiur helped me
to purchase banana-leaf fans for our entire group (these were fun to pass out
as gifts on the bus, especially as I'd almost purchased gift fans to bring
from Des Moines before I realized that this would be like "taking coals
to Newcastle"!)
After a lunch which included tasty fried eggplant and fried "bitter
lemons", we visited some nearby handicraft market booths, then visited a
second artisan workshop: Dhamria Metal Crafts, located 39 kilometers north of
Dhaka.
We received a tour and saw extremely detailed work underway by artists using
the ancient "lost wax" process to create molds then sculpture and
bas relief objects. The showroom of brass and silver artwork was a treasure
trove of Hindu images, bowls, jewelry, and other items.
Many of us have developed a fondness for images of Ganesh, so were delighted
to buy Ganesh metal artworks then outside to find a booth selling more Hindu
art, including posters of Ganesh along with decorative clay molds for candy
and many other items.
Our guides finally were able to entice us away. They're very good about
rounding us all up for departures... Khaled, a Dhaka University student who's
now traveling with us as a guide, has even tried using the "Round 'em up,
head 'em out!" line that I shared with him from "Bonanza".
We traveled back to Dhaka to pack up for our next long trip: heading south to
Chittagong, then Cox's Bazar.
Our departure supper tonight at the hotel was a change: Italian! Delicious
shrimp pizza followed by pasta with beef and vegetables - and my favorite
Bangladesh dessert: mango! I've not tired of mango yet at all, and especially
loved the frothy mango drink served earlier this week.
On the bus and over meals, we discuss our concerns about education and
environmental issues here... however, we are overwhelmed also with the beauty
of Bangladesh, the warmth of the people and their many talents, and the
incredible experiences that we feel very fortunate to enjoy here each day.
'Weather is not favorable'
We left Dhaka this morning at 8:30 with an estimated travel time to
Chittagong of 8 hours. With a “weather is not favorable” warning we
expected a much longer journey.
We were soon out of Dhaka, despite heavy rain, and crossing the Sitalakha
River near Demra.
There was a lot of flooding as we drove along. We saw small villages
surrounded by water with a narrow bamboo bridge for walking leading up to
the embankment we were driving on. Many men and boys were fishing with nets
in the water.
Our first stop was the Miami Leisure Spot advertising Uro Cola and sweets,
turned out to be a nice shop for additional souvenirs. Some globes were
distributed to the local children.
Luke and George topped up their mango bar supply, and we were once again on
our way. Lunch was at a Chines (sic) Restaurant, fresh pineapple juice,
chicken, beef, rice, vegetables, soup, wontons and excellent coffee. We are
not going hungry in Bangladesh.
Closer to Chittagong the hills begin to rise in the distance. We glimpsed
the holiest Hindu temple in the hills by Sitakunda. It’s the historic
Hindu Chandranath Temple an hour's uphill climb from the road.
We entered the Chittagong coastal plane with hills to our left and the Bay
of Bengal on our right. There are many industries in Chittagong because of
its access to the bay. One of the major industries is shipwreck salvage.
We begin to see more thatched roofs on houses and walls and fences made from
woven coconut palm fronds. Sarah remarked on the advertising on buildings,
the same ads repeated over and over like Andy Warhol Campbell Soup cans.
We arrived at the Agrabad Hotel around 4:30. It was a very speedy trip
without too much traffic. We were greeted by doormen with small feather
dusters on their hats. All were happy to see their rooms and have time to
“get fresh” before dinner.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Chittagong to Cox’s Bazar
Fields … vegetables, sugar cane, rice fields … freshly plowed, either by
hand, by oxen plow, or mini-tractor. A small town… cities, tight squeezes, and
near misses on the highway. Men loading and unloading trucks. Rickshaws picking
up and dropping off customers. Dogs, goats, cows, and people, thousands of
people pass by on the way from the port city of Chittagong to our new location
of Cox’s Bazar (yes one a), home of one of the longest beaches in the region.
Roads in Bangladesh are narrow, two lane highways with a small shoulder that
is almost constantly filled with people or animals. Organized villages, moveable
shops, and squatter communities sprout up along the highway. When we see this
narrowing process, the road narrows because the shoulder is being used for human
and animal uses. As the road narrows, traffic congestion increases, reducing
speeds, and adding time to the journey.
In this photo, multiple modes
of transportation in a village
can be seen. The roads are indeed
marked, but the proper uses of the
markings can be ‘negotiable’
based on the circumstance. |
Our Iowa experience concerning traffic is to hop onto the interstate, set the
cruise control, and go. Even on two lane highways, country roads, and gravel,
speed can be kept pretty constant. We have all made way for the tractor during
planting season or the combine at harvest time in the fall. You may see a line
of five to ten cars waiting to safely make their way around the farm equipment.
We have to slow traffic down a few times during a country drive a couple times a
year.
With Bangladesh, things are a little different, with the same square miles as
Iowa and fifty times the people; there are several rice planting and harvest
seasons, which makes for a constant flow of farming equipment. Additionally,
here in Bangladesh there are narrow roads, many small tractors, plows, and
rickshaws carrying crops. So our Iowa experience is multiplied several times
over.
Moving on…
We made a small stop at a BRAC office for a little break. BRAC is an acronym
for Bangladesh Rural Advancement Committee. In the hallway of the building there
was a poster series on living a proper life. The message of the poster series
was that both men and women created this world and they must work together to
succeed. Some of the components of BRAC projects are education, empowerment
through micro-credit loans, and health.
Along the lines of health, we made a side stop at a hospital in Malumghat,
outside Cox’s Bazar. On the plane from the UK, Kay Weller, from UNI, sat next
to a couple who worked at a hospital. During the flight, she made arrangements
to stop by at the hospital when we were close by, and this we did as a side-stop
for the day. We were greeted by the hospital administrator, who was the father
of the young man Kay met on the plane. He was originally from Peoria, Illinois,
so there was an instant Midwest connection. The son, that Kay sat next to on the
plane, rode up on a motorcycle and we toured the hospital. This hospital sees
about 300,000 people in a year’s time, so it is a busy place. Most of the
people who access the hospital are impoverished. To combat these hardships and
others like being all alone, or with no family support, the hospital has a shop
to create small things to sell. Personally, I am not a big shopper, but when you
can put someone to work for a good cause, count me in. So anyone expecting
little Bangladeshi gifts… be pretty certain that they came from this shop.
After seeing pond water everywhere
for the last few weeks and being
advised not to swim in it, the
Bay of Bengal was a welcome sight. |
When the time came to reach the sea, we crested a small hill and the sea was in
plain sight. After lunch, we got on our swimwear and headed to the beach.
Swimwear is loose term, because by our standards, you probably would be under
dressed at this beach. We were about the only folks in shorts, the native lungi
(men’s cotton mid-wrap) and saris were commonly seen on the beach.
Needless to say splashing around in the Bay of Bengal was splendid!
After dinner we watched a family just outside the hotel property. A family of
7 lives in a small hut that farms a small piece of ground and takes care of a
couple of cows.
Although it does not sound like the perfect evening activity, I learned a lot
about the family and their way of life. Not really the type of life we would
call ideal, but they seemed happy and it was clear there was a great deal of
happiness in the family.
Friday, July 27, 2007
Back from the beach
It was hard to leave the beach life at Cox’s Bazar: the salt air, casual
atmosphere and sound of crashing waves made our stay a respite for our group,
now approaching our third week in country.
After supper last night, a few of us ventured to the beach and found it safe
and tranquil. While we scuttled crabs with our flashlights, we saw families
strolling and heard groups of young men singing. There was just enough moonlight
for the lovers.
We stopped at Dalahazara Safari Park, a 3,000 acre park established in 1999.
Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, a nature lover, recognized the need for a place
that would provide education and employment and also a breeding program for
endangered and threatened species.
Until the 1960’s, the Bengal tiger lived in evergreen forests which once
covered the area. Human land use and poaching took their toll here, just like
clearing prairie for agriculture threatened the American bison.
A few animals at the park are from Africa, and there’s even a North
American turkey. Most of the species of birds, deer, bear, elephants, monkeys
and reptiles are native. Like the Safari Parks near Omaha and San Diego, one
travels in a vehicle, but may get out at assigned viewing areas.
The two Bengal tigers were beautiful, and the turtle with flippers caught my
attention. There was a viewing bridge for the 54 crocodiles, and a few of our
group took the opportunity to ride an elephant.
Several monkeys had free range, and looked for handouts from the keeper who
accompanied us. A snack bar at the end featured a man with a machete who
expertly whacked open fresh coconuts and inserted drinking straws.
The preservation efforts and breeding program are examples of the
sophistication we find in Bangladesh. This insight may be missing from your
concept of a developing country.
Rural Bangladeshis protect
themselves from monsoon
rains with a woven raincoat
called a mathal. |
Rain caught us a few times during the day, for brief intervals.
Like an Iowa thunderstorm, there is a palpable heat buildup. Thunderheads
tower; the rain a welcome release. Skies don’t clear, and the heat builds
anew.
We returned to Chittagong, a grimy working city where it is all about ships
coming in and out. There seems to be less public art inside the tangles of
roundabouts here than in Dhaka or Rajshahi.
Others have scoffed at my interest in public art (which runs the gamut from
metal abstractions to giant mangoes and herons and includes mosaics of the
Language Martyrs). I have come to believe that art, literature, and history are
part of the glue that holds a country together. Students here memorize and can
recite Tagore’s poetry. When people come to your town, what art do they see?
What poetry and songs hold us together?
Right now I hear the evening call to prayer -- part of the glue that holds
Bangladesh together. Like our church bells, the sound is expected, understood,
and comfortable.
The rains come.
The city’s grand mansions wetted into safe field mice nests.
The silver-robed magician in his air-conditioned lair has never been caught in
the rain.
After the meeting, the white car whisks him away to his marble-and-glass palace
where water means mineral water, cooler, geyser.
In America when it rains, avenues are not water-logged.
Rows of colorful umbrellas hoist a rainwater fair.
And choruses rise in schools, “Rain, rain, come again.…”
In Third World alleys, rainwaters heave and toss.
Mothers of tiny children wade to work.
Fathers repair shacks, lean-tos, thatch roofs.
The tea stall boy is slapped for breaking a cup—
Yet, it rains, and boys and girls naked frolic in the mud slime with the
Gods.
Source: The Daily Star. Dhaka,
Bangladesh. 28 July 2007, p. 21.
Saturday, July 28, 2007
Cruisin' in Rangamati
When looking over my notes for today one word stands out: epic. This is the
story of our epic journey into the Rangamati area of the Chittagong Hill
Tracks.
The day did not start off too great. Several of us have the sniffles and
coughs so we had to stop at the local pharmacy for menthol and cough syrup.
However, we got a good laugh out of the situation; when someone mentioned
hearing George loudly blowing his nose that morning he quipped “Yes, and
when I opened my door there were 2,000 Muslims outside who thought that I
had done the call to prayer.” I have quickly learned one must have a sense
of humor to survive four weeks in a van with sixteen other (sick and sweaty)
people.
Soon we began to notice a steep rise in elevation and a tightening in the
curves of the road. We had entered the Hill Tracks. For those who do not
know, the Chittagong Hill Tracks span the length of the southeast branch of
Bangladesh and are a notoriously dangerous place for tourists, especially
after the recent kidnapping of a Danish man. In short, the trouble in this
area is mostly due to conflict between the tribal groups and the plains
people. Although Rangamati is the safest area of the Hill Tracks, foreigners
are still required to stop at several checkpoints and have armed guards
while in certain areas.
Once in the city of Rangamati we arrived at the Rangamati-Kaptai Lake.
This lake was artificially made in 195 after the damming of the Karnaphuli
River. Unlike the Coralville Reservoir, the Karnaphuli River was dammed for
generating power. During this process many people were displaced and live
scattered about the region.
At the lake we boarded a boat for an afternoon tour of the massive lake.
The scenery was astounding. The giant hills were covered in forests of teak,
banana, and other tropical plans. Portions of the land were cultivated with
various crops (such as ginger, tamarack, and pineapple) often as thum or
shifting cultivation. The sky also played an important role in the area’s
beauty. A panoramic picture would include giant white cumulus clouds against
a royal blue sky that contrasted with low grey clouds that misted rain over
mountain tops. A picture does not even come close to portraying how
impressive the scenery was.
For lunch we stopped at the charming Peda Ting Tin Restaurant where we
were served the local treat- bamboo. It was served in cooked in a vegetable
dish with gravy and breaded and fried. It had the texture of a dense
mushroom and is a vegetarian’s delight! We were also served chicken that
was cooked in large bamboo shoots and fish from the local lake.
The next highlight of the cruise was stopping at a large waterfall. There
were disembarked and climbed the slippery rocks to stick our hands in the
falls.
We were out about ten minutes when the wind suddenly picked up and we
heard frantic calls to come back to the boat- the monsoon rains were coming.
I was surprised at how quickly the sprinkles turned to a heavy downpour.
I was not the only one to come back to the boat drenched!
After our cruise we headed back through the beautiful hills towards
Chittagong.
Although the roads were not as busy as Dhaka, this ride was still nerve
wracking. It probably had to do with taking hairpin turns at thirty miles
per hour in the wrong lane with no idea what was around the turn!
But our wonderful driver got us back safe and sound as always.
High fashion and futbol on the beach
Do you remember Frankie and Annette from the beach blanket movies of the
1950’s? Maybe you have seen those movies as originals or the really bad
re-runs, either way, if you thought that they were conservative, welcome to
Bangladesh Baywatch! Swimwear takes on a whole new meaning on the beach at
Cox’s Bazar. Everything you see at the local Iowa pool on a hot day would make
the beachwear we have seen look a really bad beach movie. In the same camera
shot, we saw burqas, hood and all, what we would consider fancy evening wear,
and men in lungis splashing and frolicking in the waves. It was kind of fun to
watch with all of the people who have been staring at us, it was fun to stare at
them for a while. We were wearing normal swimwear, and we looked radical. To
quote the day, it was bizarre at Cox’s Bazar.
As the day ended, we also saw the international appeal of futbol. While
summer soccer leagues ended at home in Iowa and our thoughts are turning to
American football in the fall, we all saw the appeal of the game on the beach
this afternoon. We at one time had two tour guides, three middle school
teachers, two very respected university professors, and five various states of
children, from beggars to hawkers playing a game of pass on the beach. My
favorite moment of the day was the boy who stopped by and not speaking any
English, just starting kicking the ball with shouts that were only understood
as, ”pass it to me.” That we did and it was hard not to think of the old
commercials from the World Cup last summer, you must remember, “All over the
world everyone, no matter who we are or where we are from, we all smile in the
same language, futbol.” I can see why the game of futbol has so much
international appeal, as we witnessed this afternoon, it brings everyone
together.
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Where's the wettest place on the planet?
During this longest travel day of our trip, we headed north from Chittagong
toward our destination of Sylhet, driving along the hills which border India on
Bangladesh’s eastern edge. In Fenni, we visited two schools of grade ten
students. At a private (thus selective) girls’ school, we encouraged students
to continue with education and to pursue careers. Many Bangladeshi females now
become teachers, while some have told us they want to become doctors and lawyers
- however, paying for education is difficult for most families. Teachers at
private schools such as the one we visited often end up with less pay than
public school teachers, since some parents can’t afford to pay the portion of
salaries that they are expected to cover. Yet understandably, most parents want
their children to attend the best of schools.
Next, we participated in a major event during our visit to a boys’ public
school. The headmaster was retiring, so the faculty and students joined us in an
enormous room decorated in honor of our visit. We were impressed with the
environmental theme and work in the posters, and took many photos, which
delighted the students and faculty. We were given the posters to use in
geography workshops back in Iowa, then our driver skillfully managed to get us
back on the road without injuring any of the boys who excitedly mobbed our
mini-bus.
Traveling north, we pursued various productive and/or amusing ways to pass
the time, including boisterous comments comparing favorite billboard
personalities, such as the Pran Oil girl, the Lux girl, and the Banglalink boy.
Next, Dr. Bimal Paul presented information from his research on infant
mortality, which is declining notably in Bangladesh. Then we learned from
Bimal’s research regarding disaster-related health issues. I was interested to
hear that after cyclones, the assistance of psychologists is often needed more
than the help of medical doctors – and that along with drowning, snakebite is
a leading cause of flood-related deaths in Bangladesh.
Then a vigorous discussion developed concerning corruption, and the work of
various government organizations and non-government organizations (GOs and
NGOs). This information will help me to set up a micro-credit loan to a
Bangladeshi woman – which I plan to then follow with my students concerning
the impact of the loan on the related family.
As we entered northeastern Bangladesh, we saw landscape giving way to a
waterscape of wetlands known as haors. Many chickens, cows, goats, and
pedestrians gathered along the tree-lined roadway embankments, taking refuge
above the shimmering, silvery expanses of water. This was another chance to
observe how even in “normal” years, 30% of Bangladesh may be covered with
flood waters. Going further north, I recalled Alexander Frater’s adventures
(described entertainingly in his book “Chasing the Monsoon”) as he headed
north toward Cherrapunji, which is aptly titled the “wettest place on Earth”
due to annual local rainfall accumulations of 500 inches. By comparison, Sylhet
received a maximum of 200 inches per year – and Iowa receives a maximum of 35
inches!
Near Sylhet, we were joined by a police escort, who accompanied us with
sirens and flashing lights to our hotel. I cringed a bit as our group became
even more noticeable as oddities, yet it was nice to have our safety supported
in many ways while we traveled.
I looked forward to enjoying the “liberal” city of Sylhet, (population
250,000) which has been impacted by the influence of many Bangladeshi natives
traveling back and forth from London since leaving in 1880 to pursue jobs
related to ship-building industries. There are estimates that 500,000
Bangladeshi people now live in London.
